St. Hovhannes Chapel

VISITOR INFORMATION

📍 Location - Lori Province, Pambak Mountain Range, on the summit of Srbi/Chgnavor (Hermit) Mountain, about 1 km east of Hartagyugh (also close to Tsaghkaber and Mets Parni villages).
🕰️ Period - A pilgrimage site since medieval times; the present chapel was rebuilt in 1958.
🌐 Coordinates – approx. 40.85° N, 44.54° E
🏰 Other Names - “Ghaltakhchi Surb” (St. of Ghaltakhchi), “St. Hovhannes of Tsaghkaber,” “Zoravor St. Hovhannes”
🌿 Best Time to Visit - Late spring to late autumn (winter conditions are harsh due to high elevation, strong winds, and rapid weather changes).
🛤️ How to Get There - Drive to Hartagyugh village, then hike approx. 3 km uphill to the summit. Comfortable hiking shoes, water, and weather-appropriate clothing are essential. Avoid climbing in wet or stormy conditions.

OVERVIEW

The Chapel of St. Hovhannes crowns the summit of Srbi (Hermit) Mountain in the Pambak Range, rising 2157 meters above sea level, about 1 km east of Hartagyugh. The site is distinguished by its high-mountain setting and the hundreds of khachkars (cross-stones) that surround it, forming a unique spiritual landscape.

ETYMOLOGY

Hartagyugh was historically known as Ghaltakhchi, a Turkish word meaning saddle-maker, referring to the traditional craft of the villagers. Hence the chapel is often called “St. of Ghaltakhchi.” The name “St. Hovhannes of Tsaghkaber” relates to the neighboring village of Tsaghkaber. The chapel is dedicated to St. Hovhannes baptist, whose relics are linked with this site.

HISTORY

According to tradition, in the 13th century, relics of Hovhannes the Baptist were brought to Armenia by Armenian and Yezidi commanders, and part of them was interred at this mountain summit. Initially, a cross was erected here, which was later replaced by a chapel. During the Soviet years, the chapel was blown up and burned three times, yet each time the villagers of Hartagyugh rebuilt it. The final reconstruction took place in 1958. In past centuries, the site was one of the most renowned pilgrimage destinations of the Alexandropol district during the Feast of Vardavar. The chapel has been mentioned in the letters and poetry of Hovhannes Shiraz, as well as in George Gurdjieff’s book "Meetings with Remarkable Men".

ARCHITECTURE

The chapel is a modest, stone-built, single-room structure. Inside are crosses, icons, and spaces for lighting candles. Around it spreads a growing “forest” of khachkars, placed by pilgrims. Since 2005 alone, more than 250 khachkars have been erected here, each bearing the story of a fulfilled vow or answered prayer.

TOURISM

The chapel is reached by a short but steep and challenging uphill hike. The full walk takes about 1.5-2 hours, depending on weather conditions and physical fitness. The trail leads to an open summit, offering sweeping views of the Pambak Mountains and surrounding valleys, and on clear days, even the majestic Mount Aragats can be seen. The site is especially crowded on the Feast of Vardavar, when thousands of pilgrims from surrounding villages ascend to the chapel. A visit here can easily be combined with nearby sites such as Saghmosavank, Hovhannavank, the Holy Cross Church of Aparan, and the Alphabet Park.

LOCAL LEGENDS

Countless stories testify to the miraculous powers of the chapel. It is widely believed that prayers here can heal the sick, bless childless families, and grant the sincere wishes of pilgrims. The tradition of erecting khachkars is directly linked to these beliefs: those whose wishes have been fulfilled return to the site to raise a cross-stone in gratitude.